Modeling....

[mrWM734]

I tore up my old layout, and I'm halfway through the new benchwork. My new layout will recreate the WMSR. I already am in the process of making more WMSR coaches.

[ATSF104]

I have an Atlas Undecorated GP40 w/ dynamics on order that I'm gonna paint Orange and add Microscale Decals to it. Not sure what the closest orange is to the Genesse & Wyoming, Buffalo & Southern, Rochester & Southern, etc. Then when I get that finished I'm going to grab my undecorated SD40-2 and paint it black and add IC decals.

-Matt

[NewEnglandRailFan]

I'm limited for space, so right now I am working on an 8x4 small HO layout. I got some track set up, but right now I'm leafing through my Walther's catalog looking at the Scenery objects (right after I drool at the CSX SD80's :P ;-))

[JohnNetzlof]

>I have an Atlas Undecorated GP40 w/ dynamics on order that
>I'm gonna paint Orange and add Microscale Decals to it. Not
>sure what the closest orange is to the Genesse & Wyoming,
>Buffalo & Pittsburgh, Rochester & Southern, etc. Then when I
>get that finished I'm going to grab my undecorated SD40-2
>and paint it black and add IC decals.
>
>-Matt

It depends on what Railroad and what number the engine is gonna be. Let me know which unit and I can give you a decent paint match for it.

If all else fails thought Reffer Orange and MILW Orange usually do pretty darn close.

Modeling projects...hmmm....well, I'm going to officially start on my layout soon, in the form of a diorama which will be built into the Brockway/Crenshaw section (Old Pittsburg & Shawmut where the Erie came in) and then i'll build off of it (Modeling the old PS&N grade between Brockway and St.Marys, PA)

Most recent completed project? Umm, trying to find something in my "junk" box to make into a slug of SOME kind...Next week i'm getting on of those GE U5B's that Frateschi (sp) sells in Brazil, one of the two dealers that live in the US belong sto my Division, so the Slug is supposed to go between that and the Puttman Loco Works PUG i'm getting sometime between now and when Brian dies (umm, thats a 50-70 year stretch)

Gotta finnish that WCMX SD9 sometime soon...not to mention the WCMX hopper cars which I need to get decals for...pile on pile on, one thing after an other that needs be done.

[ATSF104]

Its going to be Rochester & Southern GP40 #102.

-Matt

[ATSF104]

As you may already know I'm going to expand my layout when we get into our NY house if we get into our NY house.

-Matt

[bigbadCN_man]

Im still planning and building up enough money to start my HO layout.(It is going to have CN rolling stock and locomotives) Maybe 5 or 6x8.(to accomadate the minimum 22 in radius turns, unfortunitly I am going to use flex track for it so turns will be a pain) If y'all have any tips or hints that would make this as easy as possible they would be apreciated A LOT!
Cheers,
Morgan>Nagrom<

[ATSF107]

I'm working on a shortline railroad on a 4x6 board. All I have right now is the board and a temporary layout.

[JohnNetzlof]

Ok, make things worse, since you said R&S 102, what year is it going to represent? it's gone through a LOT of fading, something about the paint on that one...

[runaway_b_unit]

I currently have no layout (someday.....), I collect rolling stock and scenery to hopefully use it. Stuff from my previous layout "got old" and worn out. I've been doing what I can to reuse it, I have some nice stuff. My projects for this summer are rebuilding a bachmann F40 and turning a Athearn GP9 into a GP9b, also updating the 1990's models to modern standards. "All cars in interchange service equiped with hook couplings must be removed from service and replaced with magnetic knuckle couplings."

[rpicardi1]

22" radius will fit on a 4x8. Make the table 6x8 and you will may have difficulty doing scenery in the center.

Laying curved flex track is easy;
1. Using a ruler as a compass with the pivit anchored and a pencil on the 22" mark, sketch your curve out. This will be the centerline.
2. Using cork for roadbed, split the cork, it's precut on a bevel for that reason. Lay the 90* edge on the line and glue or tack in place. Lay the other half against it.
3. Tack the flex track in place. Cut off the excess inside length with a razor saw and connect to the next place with rail jointers.

Much easier to lay and you get easy entry into the curves. Much better then snap track.

Use the more expensive nickel-silver track. Brass track is too hard to keep clean.

edit; typos

SRV Ron

[K36487]

I'm working on detailing my G-scale steamers. Check my site for pictures....

www.freewebs.com/phrr

[JohnNetzlof]

Here's a picture, i'd say 7 Parts MILW Orange to 1 Part the yellow you're using for the side sills.

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/misc-r/rs102ars.jpg

Since you're moving to NY and modeling a GWI locomotive, this site will be of help to you, run by my freind Greg Wiltsie (you'll see i'm a regular contributor)

www.geocities.com/gwirailfan

[jleong14]

Working on a 9 x 22 HO scale layout. Currently re-laying a lot of track . Still got a LONG way to go.

Justin Leong

[Erick_Cantu]

McDonnell Douglas MD-87 at the moment.

http://sgair.net/erick/SIGS/CP_BANNER.JPG

"The F59PHI and Genesis are the lamest excuses for locomotives Amtrak has ever operated - accept it and move on. Hug an F40 before it's too late!"

[ATSF104]

Well I'm not sure exactly which engine I'm going to make for the R&S it will be a GP40 with new paint.

-Matt

[ATSF104]

Ok aside from the R&S GP40 here is what else I've been working on. State Highway 56 on its way to completion the town doesn't have a name...any suggestions? LOL. I'm using http://www.woodlandscenics.com Road System Learning Kit #LK592.

-Matt

[mrWM734]

I just bought a model of N&W 611.

[FURX]

What's everyone working on?

In mid June, my pair of Overland brass B&O C27-A class cabooses came in. I bought the 904006, and 904061 from Canadian Model trains at a very good price, a mere $236 each, totalling $487 and some change.

They were well worth it.

My B&O (Chessie) 3689 is comming along, I've;

Added modified foot boards (MU cable retaining boxes)

Painted the cab insides

Painted the control stand black, with red train brake handle

Added "soda can" antena between the 2 forward chimes of the S3L horn

Added wind deflectors

Sunshades

Painted the hose coupling aliminium.

Added "Mailbox slots"

And added marker lights. I have a story about that....

They came molded into the plastic, which I didn't like. I drilled holes where they were cast in, painted the opening black to simulate the rubber gasket, then inserted clear lenses after the paint dried. I'm telling you, they look SO good.

I also added other small things, like traction motor cables, a speed recorder, and the included EFCAB behind the conductor's seat. I also mounted a new bell on the DB hatch behind the conductor's seat, like the real one.

The only thing I have to do is decal the numberboards (ugh, I've been sitting around for a month trying to avoid it), and dull coat it.


I adjusted the wheel sets on my B&O GP38, somehow the axels started to seperate, so I popped them out, and squeesed them back together. Made a world of difference.

I replaced the wheelsets in an Athearn r-t-w WM boxcar with LL2PK flat 33" wheels.

My freind Brian wanted some work done on a few engines, so I gladly started to work on them.

Athearn Genesis CSX SD70M;

Added Kaddee #5 couplers, a DW K5LA horn, and weathered it.


LLP2K SD45, CSX #8901

I added a sinclair antena, a Lelsie S5T-RR horn, painted the handrail ends yellow, painted the cable couplings silver, and weathered it, using acyrlic "burnt sienna" dabbed on with a sponge, around the pilot ends, fuel tank, and trucks.


Athearn GP38-2 CSX, #2558

On this unit, I winged the details, added MU cables, sunshades, K5LA horn, a RC strobe light on the hood, and painted the handrails.



One last project I have was this ex Norfolk Southern C36-7EM, in HLGX paint. I started this unit over 3 years ago, when I was still modeling CSX. Now that I'm into B&O, WM and Chessie, I 've got no reaosn to complete this unit, but I'm going to any ways.

All I have to do now is decal it, and assemble it, along with a coat of dullcoat.

I've added

The distincive third brake cylinder on each truck side frame

A K5H horn

Multiple antenas

Snowplows

MU cables

Ditch lights

Grabe irons

And sunshades.

I can't wait to see how it turns out.

I need a camera without an auto focus so I can take pictures of my stuff, and the trains I'm working on for others.



And, my freind Chris, who is an N scaler had approached me with the idea of scratch building a CSX slug set, using a Kato SD40-2, and a GP7 frame.

I have a good idea on what I'm going to do.

The slug will be unpowered, using an Atlas GP7 frame/walkway.

I can buy a square styrene tube to make the bulk of the slug hood.

Then, using a rectangular shapped peice of styrene, slightly narrower than the tube, and pretty darn thin, glued to the top of the styrene tube. Then, to make the round hood edges, take model putty, squirt it along the ledge between the top of the tube, and side of the small rectangle, and file/sand it to a round counter.



The angled end peices will be to sheets of styrene glued into a "v" shape.

The SD40-2 model wise will be a peice of cake, with the only major mod being nose mounted headlights.

What I intened to to is cut a small small hole on the nose, and glue a light casting over it. I would Dremol a channel through the nose weight to re direct the light bulb and it's wire through the cab, and into the nose. I can splice the wire if needed, and solder it back together, using heat shrink tubing so the light can reach the nose.

Since it's in N scale, and the engine disects into sub sections, painting won't be more than an annoyence.

Well, what are you working on?-Jeffrey

[mrWM734]

Here are some pictures of my model of 611.
http://forums.flightsim.com/dcforum/User_files/40fdedac3ff58901.jpg
http://forums.flightsim.com/dcforum/User_files/40fdedb54000a3f1.jpg